QBLOG #42 Uhuru

31 Aug 06, Kibo Huts 4700 Meters (15,420 feet), 11:00 PM


The door to where we are sleeping opens. I know this because I am right next too the door. A cool breeze hits me in the face. OK, it's a freezing breeze. The guide for the Austrians comes in and tells his group to get up and get ready to leave in 20 minutes. Then Andrew's guide enters and wakes him. Thaddeus is next and Eddie and I get up and prepare ourselves. It is dark outside. It is freezing outside. We pull on several layers of clothing and top off with our jackets, gloves and packs. Our eyes are still heavy and we move about like zombies. We climb to the top today which is at 5895 Meters or 19,340 feet. That means that in the next 6 hours we need to climb 1285 Meters/3920 feet. It will be the largest increase in altitude we have climbed in a single day. We leave Kibo bundled up and with head lamps or flashlights guiding our way.

The way is not easy. We are climbing a steep slope and the going is not only slow, but difficult. We are using our trekking poles. The slope is made up of scree. This is a loose dirt and gravel that seems to be intent on hindering our effort up. Despite the slow pace we find ourselves directly behind a large group. It seemed impossible moments ago, but our pace has slowed tremendously. Thaddeus decides to overtake the group. This really challenges me. My one-two-three-four pace is gone and I am struggling against the altitude and against the scree. We pass. My breathing would indicate that I've just run the 100 yard dash as fast as I could.

Just as I am regaining my pace we find ourselves behind another large group and before I know it, we are off and moving past this group. I think I am going to die. My heart is pounding, my mouth is dry, my legs are hurting. I want to stop, but we can't or we will have to pass this group again. A few minutes later relief comes. We stop. I catch my breath, drink some water and begin to shiver. It is too cold to stop for long. Thaddeus urges us on. Florio, our assistant guide stays behind me. I plant my pole to assist in moving up the hill. It breaks and I fall. Florio stops me from going further. He recovers the other half of the pole. It is sooooo cold. It is dark and it is freezing. I want to cry. I can hardly catch my breath. I think about crying, but it will just dehydrate me. . I can't afford that right now. I let out a whine instead I reach for some water. It is frozen. My energy seems to be gone. There is no food in me. I'm shaking from the cold. Florio helps me zip up the zippers under my arms. I look at Eddie. He is only a mass in front of me. He sits on a rock. I sit next to him. I sit very close hoping to warm up. We both look like we have seen the grim reaper. Thaddeus tells us we must keep moving. Some how we muster the energy and continue. I have a small piece of candy in my pocket. I place it in my mouth and it provides energy enough to continue. We are moving as if we have balls and chains attached to our feet...shuffling, holding on to our pole(s) and inching up the mountain.



Darkness covers things that you are glad you don't see. We believe it is why we leave at midnight for the summit. The hill is steep. If we saw it from the bottom, we would have discouraged hearts. Now, we are near the top. We move over a small hill and through some rocks. We find ourselves in a small clearing. Relief comes, but only for a moment. This is Gillman's Point. It is on the top of Kilimanjaro, but not the top. We are told we have only 500 meters to go. We are told that it is much easier. We are told that 95% of the rest of the way is a breeze. 500 meters. I can do that. That's just over that dark shadow of a hill. It is freezing. Colder than before. I begin shaking again and my teeth are chattering. OK, let's do this. We walk for what I believe is 500 meters. There is a hill. I think to myself, "finally, we are here...Thank God." We are deceived. When we come to this hill, there is another behind it. We reach that hill and there is another behind it. I am thinking, "500 meters my @$$!" It hits me. 500 meters HIGHER not LONGER. Ugggh. I am empty. I pull out a Power bar. I can't go on. I need some energy. The bar is frozen. I don't care. If I don't have something I will drop right here and I won't care. I break a piece off and stuff it in my mouth. I let it melt. I can feel the bar melting down my throat and into my stomach and energy makes it to my legs and arms. We shuffle on.



There are voices in the distance. There is snow. There are camera flashes. We hear shouts of joy. We perk up, but our legs will not move any faster. We see the signs that tell us we have made it to Uhuru. A man is jumping and crying and shouting. It is Andrew. As we move closer I break down, I'm overcome with relief. I hug Eddie and don't want to let go. We then hug Thaddeus and Florio. Thaddeus takes our picture. We then take pictures with each of them and in one voice we say, "let's get down from here." Just then the sun begins to creep over the clouds. Like a scene from SUPERMAN, this brilliant red breaks the darkness and morning light is showing us all that the darkness hid from us. It is amazingly beautiful. The clouds. The glaciers. The peaks. The top of the world!


As light comes, we find our way back much easier. Our legs are sore. Our breathing is heavy. We are told not to drink water until we reach Kibo or we will get sick. We just want to get down now and be warm and fill our stomachs. Our spirits soar and once we pass Gillman's Point, we hit the steep slope with scree. Like children we pretend to ski down it. Sliding and stepping and sliding and stepping, wheeeeee! Some how we found energy. We are happy and tired and just want to get down.

We made it. We climbed not just Kilimanjaro but to its highest point, Uhuru peak and lived to tell about it! 5895 Meters above sea level. It is an experience that Eddie and I will always remember.

to be continued....The hike back down.

Robert